In Vino Veritas LXXXV: Stocking a Region’s Signature Grape

While most oenophiles can recite a litany of grape varietals and their traits off the cuff, most consumers aren’t nearly as informed. They’ve likely heard of the top international grapes that have been transplanted around the globe as well as one or two that characterize a specific region, but beyond that getting into esoteric vintages can be both intimidating as well as alluring.

Thus, by knowing what’s common knowledge and what isn’t, you can guide your inventory to be more congruent with your restaurant’s strategic vision to thereby increase beverage revenues and meal satisfaction. First, let’s look at some examples of what we mean by ‘signature grape’.

  • Argentina: malbec
  • Australia: shiraz (for reds at least)
  • Austria: grüner veltliner (for whites)
  • Burgundy: chardonnay, pinot noir and gamay (otherwise known as Beaujolais)
  • Chile: caménère
  • Germany: riesling and gewürztraminer (for whites)
  • Greece: assyrtiko and xinomavro
  • New Zealand: sauvignon blanc (for whites)
  • Oregon: pinot noir
  • Piedmont: nebbiolo (the varietal used in the prestigious Barolo or Barbaresco)
  • Spain: tempranillo and garnacha (for reds)
  • Tuscany: sangiovese (and its most popular production into chianti)

Signature grapes matter when you think about them in terms of customer expectations. For instance, suppose you operate a traditional Italian trattoria with a flair for Tuscan dishes such as (our favorite) Bistecca Fiorentina. When the average guest first sees the wine list, the expectation from the above bullet points would be to first see some chiantis and other expressions of sangiovese – two being Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Supertuscans which are often composed of around 80-90% of this varietal.

Imagine a patron’s surprise, though, if the wine list doesn’t include these anticipated offerings. Unconsciously, it makes the decision process harder due to the disconnect and the inherent unfamiliarity with what’s written on the page. This then introduces an ounce of apprehension and this lack of confidence in turn can unconsciously deter the sale of more expensive vintages, resulting in fewer bottles or glasses sold overall.

On the other hand, if the branding and theme of the restaurant is to be avant-garde and playing against archetypes, then it would make perfect sense for the wine list to be equally as edgy and unpredictable. In such cases, the operator can temper any patron anxiety over not knowing what to expect in a wine purchase through server education and perhaps some written cues on the menu such as what the more obscure varietals are known for, some tasting notes or even a little story about the winery.

As may already be apparent, there is no one-size-fits-all solution for whether you go with the flow of customers’ preformed beliefs about what each region produces or aim to subvert those expectations. The latter can serve your restaurant by helping create a more memorable dining experience because you’re different, but it can also result in less overall revenues if you aren’t supporting this counterintuitive approach with the right signals that will imbue a semblance of comfort or confidence.

The most important action you can take is to know your dining outlet’s ‘reason of being’. Are you servicing people who are primarily looking for a no-frills meal with just a bit of flair? Or does your outlet strive to attract more special occasion guests who are seeking you out specifically for a culinary adventure? Knowing this core direction will then give you a clearer answer to guide the wine list and whether or not to stock a region’s signature grapes.


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